Memento Mori – Mourning Jewellery

Mourning jewellery is something we have always admired. You can see its inspiration in a number of motifs used throughout our work. The style dates back to the 16th Century in the form of Memento Mori, which literally means “remember you must die.” The pieces were created to remind the wearer of their mortality, to live their life to the full and embrace life. The early pieces often depict coffins, grave digging tools, skeletons and skulls with crossbones, they were small and intricate pieces that have a striking appearance with the use of enamel.

In the Georgian era these pieces started to take on an even more symbolic nature, often being created in dedication to passed loved ones. Engraved with names and dates, they often had small chambers for hair, intricately curled under trap doors of gold or carved rock crystal. The macabre theme continued with the use of skulls and skeleton motifs, but the style was shifting. Now becoming more sentimental.

It was in the Victorian era that we saw mourning jewellery really rise to fame. When Queen Victoria went into a prolonged mourning period after the death of Prince Albert in 1861. She, along with members of her court wore black and matching mourning jewellery for decades. In turn the style grew in popularity, it was a time of high mortality rates, when death was less shocking and more a part of everyday life. The sentimental aspect of jewellery became ever more important in easing the loss of a loved one by keeping them close after their passing. People were even known to leave money allocated in their will to create such pieces for family members. The macabre motifs of grave diggers and coffins gave way to a softer symbolism, such as, clouds, angels, weeping willows and urns. The pieces became larger, beautifully detailed and elegantly constructed.

When we were asked to make a mourning piece in honor of a much loved pet, we saw it as an opportunity to create a piece rich in sentiment with a modern twist. We wanted it to be special, but fun. A symbolic piece with a juju nod to to those antiques we admire so much. And what better way to kickstart our journey into mourning jewellery but with a beloved dogs whisker. Working closely with our client we created a ring featuring a beautiful moonstone from an heirloom necklace. It’s the perfect stone for this piece, hiding yet hinting at the chamber beneath the stone. We created a small chamber with a lid to completely entomb the whisker, then using a modern laser welding technique we fused the gold to create an air and watertight tomb, by slowly fusing the lid on the hidden chamber with the laser we were able to keep heat to a minimum, assuring the whisker was safe from burning. The ring had to stand the test of modern life! So by creating a air and water tight seal the whisker won’t deteriorate allowing the owner to wear the piece with confidence. The skulls that shoulder the stone are hand carved to give that authentic Memento Mori feel, each seems to have its own expression creating a fun addition to the ring. Mexican inspired engraving adorns the rose gold band, Mexico having significance to our client it seemed the fitting choice, not only nodding to the day of the dead festivities, but the bold hearts and flowers match our clients fun and vibrant personality.

We utilised the clients own heirloom Moonstone
The hidden cavity, treasured whisker and lid that will seal the chamber
Kingston, beloved and deeply missed
The start of a skull, the form waiting to be carved
Mexican inspired engraving adorns the band
A tiny skull takes shape

If you wish to create your own sentimental heirloom, please reach out via our Contact page and tell us your inspiration and dream for your piece. Memorial pieces will always be treated with utmost love and care.

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